Hypergipmentation affects a majority of the population and is caused by a process known as melanogenesis. It is important to know what triggers melanogenesis and how to help correct and prevent this process.
The background: Melanin is the natural component of our skin that gives us pigment, thereby determining our skin tone. It is “manufactured” by cells called melanocytes within the basal layer of our epidermis. Melanogenesis is the result of the immune system triggering an inflammatory response to protect the skin from things like heat and injury. This response causes a darkening of the skin as a result of melanin production. Here’s how the reaction works:
There are three main melanogenesis triggers:
1) UV rays, which skin gets from exposure to the sun, tanning beds and fluorescent lighting.
2) Fluctuations in hormone levels (such as pregnancy or menopause).
3) Surface irritation or abrasion of the epidermis from, for example, acne, dermatitis, psoriasis, ingrown hairs, eczema and bug bites.
There are also three steps to lifting hyperpigmentation:
1) INCREASE CELL TURNOVER. Exfoliating skin treatments, like superficial chemical peels, gently bring pigment to the surface of the epidermis and trigger the production of new skin cells. In addition, using products with low levels of retinol – part of the Vitamin A family – also helps cell turnover and is considered the most effective anti-aging ingredient.
2) INHIBIT TYROSINASE PRODUCTION. Using topical inhibitors of the enzyme tyrosinase will help stop the chain reaction that ends in melanin deposit. Common tyrosinase inhibiting ingredients include kojic, lactic, ascorbic and azelaic acids, as well as arbutin and licorice root extracts. These ingredients gently fade spots and even out skin tone.
3) PROTECT FROM FURTHER DAMAGE. Everyone should use a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF25 or higher) on a daily basis on exposed skin. This is particularly important for those trying to rid themselves of hyperpigmentation because daily UV exposure slows the process of evening the complexion and can trigger new damage. It is even more important to wear sunscreen after a peel treatment and when using exfoliating ingredients, which make skin more sun-sensitive.
The background: Melanin is the natural component of our skin that gives us pigment, thereby determining our skin tone. It is “manufactured” by cells called melanocytes within the basal layer of our epidermis. Melanogenesis is the result of the immune system triggering an inflammatory response to protect the skin from things like heat and injury. This response causes a darkening of the skin as a result of melanin production. Here’s how the reaction works:
There are three main melanogenesis triggers:
1) UV rays, which skin gets from exposure to the sun, tanning beds and fluorescent lighting.
2) Fluctuations in hormone levels (such as pregnancy or menopause).
3) Surface irritation or abrasion of the epidermis from, for example, acne, dermatitis, psoriasis, ingrown hairs, eczema and bug bites.
There are also three steps to lifting hyperpigmentation:
1) INCREASE CELL TURNOVER. Exfoliating skin treatments, like superficial chemical peels, gently bring pigment to the surface of the epidermis and trigger the production of new skin cells. In addition, using products with low levels of retinol – part of the Vitamin A family – also helps cell turnover and is considered the most effective anti-aging ingredient.
2) INHIBIT TYROSINASE PRODUCTION. Using topical inhibitors of the enzyme tyrosinase will help stop the chain reaction that ends in melanin deposit. Common tyrosinase inhibiting ingredients include kojic, lactic, ascorbic and azelaic acids, as well as arbutin and licorice root extracts. These ingredients gently fade spots and even out skin tone.
3) PROTECT FROM FURTHER DAMAGE. Everyone should use a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF25 or higher) on a daily basis on exposed skin. This is particularly important for those trying to rid themselves of hyperpigmentation because daily UV exposure slows the process of evening the complexion and can trigger new damage. It is even more important to wear sunscreen after a peel treatment and when using exfoliating ingredients, which make skin more sun-sensitive.
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